Plant Establishment
- Kelly Grummons
- Jun 5
- 7 min read
By Kelly Grummons:
ESTABLISHING NEW PLANTS
Ensuring Success with New Plantings
I can’t tell you how many times a customer has failed with a particular plant and says “I wish I’d known that was the wrong plant for that spot!” Some plants that are described as easy to grow in our dry climate take some time to develop the deep roots that sustain them and need some extra care at first. As nurserymen we try our best to guide and coach our customers through the plant selection process. If our customer fails we fail. When looking at the big picture of successful gardening, this is only the first consideration. As gardeners, we eventually figure out ways to help our plants become established and minimize loss. Hopefully these thoughts will help you succeed in the garden with new plantings.
BEFORE YOU CHOOSE YOUR PLANTS
Buy Healthy Plants
Customers always assume that plants are healthy when they buy them, but buyers beware! A seasoned gardener will have some skill in choosing healthy plants. If you are unsure, ask the nurseryperson “Is this plant healthy?” or “Would you buy this plant?” When making a significant purchase, take along an experienced gardener to help you make choices. As nurseryfolk, we can fail during the rush of the busy season to notice all pests and diseases. Often, plants come off a truck from the wholesale nursery and go into the customer’s cart the same day. (In light of this, we’ll discuss plant acclimatization later).
Buy the Appropriate Species
Of course, there are numerous considerations when choosing a plant for a particular location. Is the spot sunny, shady or part sun? Is it easily irrigated or do you prefer something that once established won’t require much water? What kind of soil do you have? Is it well drained? It’s easier to establish a plant that likes your soil type than to try and change your soil type to suit the plant’s preference. Where do you live? Your elevation can be an important factor in choosing the right species.
Consider the level of difficulty and your dedication to the plant’s needs. A woodland plant may be more difficult than a tulip bulb. Do you have time to pay attention to the new planting daily during the establishment period?
Thereafter, do you have the time to inspect the plant’s health every week or so?
Do some research and/or ask your nurseryperson, “Does this plant have the potential for any significant pests or diseases?” For instance, most fruit trees require diligent pest monitoring and control for a good crop. This can require significant time and attention to timing. When choosing turf grass sod or seed ask “How much water and fertilizer will this require?” With increasing water rates, watering a lawn can significantly affect your budget.
WHEN SHOPPING FOR PLANTS
Find Out Their History
Were these plants grown locally or shipped in from a milder climate? Locally grown plants usually require less acclimatization and nurturing than plants from a different climate. If shipped in, how long have they been here? The longer a plant is here, the more acclimatized it is. If locally grown, are they in a greenhouse (humid) or outdoors (arid)? Plants from the moist greenhouse will endure more stress after transplanting than tougher, outdoor-grown plants. This will vary tremendously from nursery to nursery. More than ever, customers ask for organically grown plants. If you prefer this, be sure to ask. Many nurseries use non-organic pesticides and fertilizers.
Ask Whether This is a Good Time of Year to Plant the Species
In my opinion, spring (mid March-late June) is the best time to plant most species. Fall (mid August to mid November) is the second best time. The heat of summer can be very difficult for both the plant and the planter. Keep in mind: When plants are dormant, they endure much less stress. Some species are only available in the fall: Tulips, daffodils, and other spring flowering bulbs for instance.
Is There a Warranty on This Plant?
Warranties vary tremendously from nursery to nursery: from no warranty to limited warranties to “no questions asked” warranties. At our nursery, we warranty most outdoor plants for five years if the customer purchases and uses a particular root inoculant and follows our planting and cultural instructions to the “T”. Experienced gardeners don’t usually choose the warranty. Beginners often do.
Who Do I Talk to at the Nursery if I Have a Problem with This Plant’s Health?
It’s always a good idea to get to know your nurseryperson and ask a lot of questions about your plant. Make a note of their name on your receipt so that if you have a question or problem you will remember who sold you the plant. The salesperson will be the right person to start with. If they don’t have the answer for you, they can refer you to a specialist. It can be heartbreaking when a plant dies so we would rather help you solve a health issue before the plant dies.
Where Can I See a Mature Example of This Plant?
I get this question often, especially about rare or very expensive plants. Often, the nursery will have display gardens full of many of their plants. Otherwise, we’re fortunate to have numerous public display gardens such as the Denver Botanic Gardens, Kendrick Lake Gardens, Hudson Gardens, Regis University, and Colorado State University. For very rare plants I try and keep in mind where nice specimens reside.
PREPARING THE SOIL
What Do I Need to Add to My Soil for This Plant to Thrive?
Most exotic plants do best when we add organic material and or pebbles to the soil in an effort to recreate their native habitat. For instance Rhododendrons and Blueberries like very acidic soil and Rabbit Brush prefers alkaline soil. Many native plants prefer no soil amendment. Sometimes just loosening the soil is preferable to mixing in a lot of compost. Keep this in mind when choosing plants for a particular bed. All plants in the same bed should have similar soil and moisture preferences. It can be very tricky to grow cacti and woodland ferns in the same bed…(but it can be done!). Do some research and ask your nurseryperson about the best technique to use in your situation.
Do I Need to Use Any Root Stimulator or Inoculant?
For many years it was considered standard practice to use a root stimulating nutrient or hormone solution when planting new plants. Over time, we’ve discovered that a good, all-purpose fertilizer did more for establishment than the so-called “root stimulator.” Root inoculants are very popular right now and should be used in conjunction with an all-purpose fertilizer. It was a common recommendation for many years that woody plants didn’t need fertilization the first year! This theory hasn’t been shown to be true. Many plants go into shock in the landscape due to malnutrition and over-watering.
ESTABLISHING THE NEW PLANT (GETTING IT TO TAKE ROOT)
How Often Should I Water a New Planting?
The answer can vary as much as the variety of plants you have. Cacti and other desert succulents only need a little water once a week or so when first planted. A large-sized Miscanthus grass grown in a West Coast nursery may need water every day for several weeks. If I had a rule of thumb for moisture-loving plants it would be “feel the soil and water it if it feels dry more than two inches deep.” One common mistake made when planting xeric (or drought tolerant) plants is in not watering them enough. Many xeric plants are not drought tolerant until their roots grow deeply into the soil. While in the original root ball, xeric plants are just as thirsty as non-xeric plants! After several weeks of careful attention, the gardener can gradually back off the daily TLC and get into a regular routine whether it’s hand-watering or utilizing an automatic irrigation system. Keep in mind that winter watering is very important in our dry climate especially for moisture-loving plants and slow-to-establish plants like dwarf conifers. Usually checking young plants every three to four weeks in the winter is adequate. This timing coincides with the warm spells experienced here during the winter months.
How Often Should I Fertilize a New Planting?
Again, the answer varies tremendously depending on the plant. Fast growing annuals and vegetables require constant feeding for maximum results. Moisture-loving woody plants prefer fertilizer in spring and early summer. Desert plants (if fertilized at all) prefer it in the spring. The most important time to fertilize herbaceous perennials, grasses and turf grass is in late summer/early fall. If you only wanted to fertilize them once a year, do it in the fall. Flowering bulbs should be fertilized in early spring when their new growth is emerging. They can only utilize nutrients when they are actively growing.
Can I Start a New Tree and a New Lawn at the Same Time?
In new landscapes gardeners often wish to establish trees and sod at the same time. The sod or seeded lawn requires irrigation several times a day, which is generally far too much water for a tree. Ideally, get the lawn established for 3-4 weeks. When you have reduced the irrigation to 1-3 times a week, install the trees. This way, both will be happier.
What If I’m Planting New Plants Near & Under Mature Trees and Shrubs?
Mature trees and shrubs are usually settled into a comfortable routine of irrigation. Disturbing their roots with the planting of perennials, annuals or turf can cause some stress (sometimes a lot of stress). If necessary, keep it simple. Prepare the soil for each new plant rather than tilling the whole area. Keep in mind that the mature tree or shrubs roots will quickly invade the new plant’s root zone and stress it. To compensate for this, water and fertilize the young plants extra until they are established. Keep an eye on them and give extra care as needed.
Kelly Grummons owns coldhardycactus.com, finding and selling the most cold hardy and low water cacti and succulents n the world. He previously worked for many years at his nursery in Arvada, Timberline Gardens.
